West MacDonnell Ranges swimming holes: where to swim, how cold, how safe

It sounds unlikely, but the desert country west of Alice Springs is good for a swim. Within two hours of town you can swim in natural waterholes at Redbank, Glen Helen, Ormiston and Ellery Creek Big Hole.¹ Tourism NT calls these the larger waterholes of the national park.⁷ Each sits at the foot of red cliffs, with sand or rock to sit on and cold, dark water in the shade.

The West MacDonnell Ranges swimming holes are not lakes or rivers in the usual sense. Some are permanent, holding water whatever the rain, and others are semi-permanent and best swum after rainfall when they are fresh and full.⁸ Tourism Central Australia singles out Ellery Creek and Ormiston as year-round swims whose water is colder than visitors expect.⁹ With no crocodiles in the waterholes, they stay open year-round.¹⁰

Not every pool is for swimming. Some waterholes are sacred, and there swimming is off limits.¹¹ Others are closed to swimmers for environmental reasons, and the signs at each site are the final word. Respect a sign even when the water looks inviting and nobody is around. The four main holes below are where swimming is welcome, and they are more than enough for a day.

Ormiston's pool holds water nearly all the time and suits a swim best in the warmer months.⁴² From the visitor centre it is a 500 m walk, and the far southern end may be 14 m deep.¹⁴ The best time to swim there, says Tourism Central Australia, is after rain, when it is freshly topped up.⁴³ The sandy bank makes it the most beach-like of the four.

Glen Helen Gorge never dries and is the largest body of water in the region, with nine fish species and several kinds of waterbird.³⁴ Tourism NT puts it an hour and a half from Alice Springs.⁴⁴ A very short walk takes you to the water's edge under sheer quartzite cliffs.³⁵ While you swim, birds, lizards and dingos often come down to drink.¹⁵

Enter both holes by walking in from the edge. At Glen Helen, depths vary, and visitors should always walk into the water.⁴⁵ At Ormiston, submerged boulders, rocks and logs make jumping and diving a danger.⁴⁶ Discovery Parks - Glen Helen has its rooms and facilities shut for now, so bring your own food and water for a Glen Helen swim.⁴⁷

Start early, both for the heat and for the light on the water. Tourism Central Australia's advice for the region is to plan swimming, hiking and day trips for the morning and stay out of the afternoon sun.⁶⁰ In summer, walks to the water are best started at sunrise and finished before midday.⁶¹ Walking tracks may be closed when the day is forecast above 36 degrees celsius.⁶²

Pack for a beach that happens to be in a desert. Sun cream, a hat, first aid, sturdy footwear and swimmers make up Tourism NT's own list for a day in the ranges.⁴⁸ For summer walks to the more distant holes, add a fly net and long socks, and tuck a snake bandage into a small first-aid pouch.⁶³ A towel, a warm top and something to sit on make the cold water much easier to enjoy.

Plan the order from east to west or the reverse, never back and forth. Ellery Creek is the nearest swim to town and Redbank the furthest, so a day that runs one way avoids doubling the driving. Leave the semi-permanent pools for after rain, when they are full and fresh.⁸ And give each hole a little time on the bank before you get in, to read the water and the signs.